Originally Posted by buttonsw
strangequark, I definitely think that you are correct when raising XPOFS2 post reset as it seems to really help the picture and clear a good portion of the misfires.
I, like makaveddie81 have always set RSTP to 1 and then raised FSAD to clear all magenta misfires from COMBI MASK 6 (usually needs to go to 177) and generally the picture is good but definitely not as clean and defined as pre reset. I have been doing this for a couple of years now and usually reset every 3 months as the black level rises over time but I have since tried the new method as stated by strangequark.
Post reset, I clear a white screen by lowering YSUS_B and XSUS_B using the table that Inarbi posted a few years so 124 for YSUS and 126 for XSUS. I have two 500A's and the one that is aged more needed one more click down so 123 for YSUS and 125 for XSUS.
Once this has been done I raise XPOFS2 from 63 in increments of 10 until RSTMSK 21 is clear of misfires and on my set that is 93, this on it's own clears up a fair bit of COMBI MASK 6 so I then raise it more until I see green lag coming in and out of COMBI MASK 6 which is a figure of 107, I then take it back a few so I reach a figure of 103 which is +40 from the default 63. This cleans quite a lot of COMBI MASK 6, 7 and PATTERN MASK 23 but not all of it.
We do know that the only two voltages that change pre and post reset are XPOFS & RSTP so all I done next is raise RSTP +40 from it's default 18 (like XPOFS2) to eliminate black rain which leaves a total of 58. When checking a normal source (Cable) and Blu Ray etc the picture looks sublime and much cleaner and crisper than raising FSAD.
So to recap, the only two voltages that I adjusted on my 500A are XPOFS2 and RSTP from:
XPOFS2 Default 63 - New figure of 103 (+40)
RSTP Default 18 - New figure of 58 (+40)
Black is unreadable with my Xrite Colourmunki Display and I'm really happy, obviously the black will rise like it did previously but I will just do regular resets every few months like before.
strangequark, your default voltages are correct for a 5090, they are identical to my 500A's
Regarding VOLSUS, I could be tempted to raise that up a bit to clear all of the MASKS but I'm not sure if it's necessary as I see no artifacts on normal content at all.
Please try this method and see how you get on, just raise XPOFS2 and RSTP by the same amount from their defaults
That's what I have been doing (RSTP and XPOFS2). If you raise XPOFS2 to 78 as quoted in the slide lnarbi posted, FSAD only needs raising by 10 or 20 ticks to clear RST 21. I don't know which way is better, but it's another option.
I'm done with COMBI MASK 6 as makaveddie81 said even non-reset Kuros can have misfires on that mask, so why clear a mask that's not even clear on all Kuros? I think it makes more sense to clear the masks in the FSAD workflow, especially RST 21, and any mask that is normally clear on a stock Kuro.
I have yet to buy another LX5090 for testing, so I'm not sure about VOL SUS, but here's the thing: VOL SUS clears the FSAD masks and
magenta-misfires on a white-field, and only RSTP needs adjusting after that. If you raise XPOFS2 and RSTP, you still need to lower XSUB/YSUB. That doesn't mean one way is better than the other, but it fits in with the VSUS ageing slide posted by lnarbi.
makaveddie81 said there was no change in VSUS before and after a reset on his set, and that clearly goes against the VSUS ageing slide posted by lnarbi, so I'm looking for another LX5090 to measure VSUS. There's also more sparkles near black when VOL SUS is raised, so yeah, there's some stuff going against it too.
Have you done any comparisons between "VOL SUS, RSTP" and "XPOFS2, RSTP, XSUB/YSUB"?
Oh and thanks for reporting back on XPOFS2. It's interesting to know that XPOFS2 clears RST 21 on the KRP500A too
Is PATTERN MASK 23 usually clear on non-reset Kuros? It's not clear with XPOFS2 at 98, and I didn't see much reason to go higher due to the green-lag. VOL SUS or FSAD clears it on my set. This is swaying me towards VOL SUS!